Mint Luster
The
shine that new coins have is technically called mint luster by
numismatists. The shine of mint luster is created during the actual coin
striking process, when the coin dies come into contact with the planchet under
extreme pressure. This process causes changes to the metal of the planchet at
the molecular level. The metal of the planchet is forced, by the great striking
pressure, to flow into the coin dies (and also against the flat surfaces of the
dies and against the edges of the collar, which produce the reeded edge we see
on certain coins like dimes, quarters, etc.)
1. A Shiny, Never Cleaned
Coin Can Do Cartwheels!
As a
result of all of this flowing metal, which is happening under extremely high
pressure, a unique event occurs. When the metal is done flowing, it has
acquired a beautiful, lustrous shine that is a by-product of the coin
manufacturing process. The precise cause of the coin's shiny surface, or mint
luster, is what we call flow lines; these are microscopic patterns in
the metal where the molecules have been forced to line up in certain ways.
These flow lines are easier to see on larger coins than on smaller ones. In
fact, Morgan Dollars were quickly nicknamed cartwheels when they first
came out, partly because the flow lines caused the appearance of a turning
windmill when the coin was tilted at angles to the light. (The other reason
Morgans were called cartwheels was a derogatory term for their large
size and heaviness. Morgan Dollars were quite unpopular when they first came
out. In fact, people disliked them so much that you could still get them in
mint condition with dates in the 1800s right from banks until the early 1960s!
The story of the History of the Morgan Dollar is truly fascinating and at times
incredible!)
To see the amazing cartwheel effect, take any newly minted coin which is still uncirculated (you probably have a few in your pocket change right now) and tilt the coin to the light, watching for the band of the "cartwheel" to rotate around. It is much easier to see this effect on the obverse (head's side of the coin) than the reverse side, because there is usually more flat space, called the field, on the side with the portrait. Also, the larger the coin, the easier it is to see the cartwheel effect, and the better it rotates.
To see the amazing cartwheel effect, take any newly minted coin which is still uncirculated (you probably have a few in your pocket change right now) and tilt the coin to the light, watching for the band of the "cartwheel" to rotate around. It is much easier to see this effect on the obverse (head's side of the coin) than the reverse side, because there is usually more flat space, called the field, on the side with the portrait. Also, the larger the coin, the easier it is to see the cartwheel effect, and the better it rotates.
2. Why is Not Cleaning the Coin So Important?
The
reason I spent so much time explaining how the cartwheel effect is created, and
how you can see if for yourself, is because the cartwheel effect gives us a good
indication of what condition the surface of the coin is in, specifically
whether the coin has been cleaned or not. In today's coin collecting market,
the state of preservation of the surface of the coin has become a critically
important element in judging what the value of the coin is. If a coin has been
cleaned, its value is significantly reduced. If the coin bears a common date in
the twentieth century (1900 to 1999) and it has been cleaned, most dealers
throw them on a scale and pay you a small premium.
What I
am trying so hard to stress to you is that cleaning your coins is a surefire
way to destroy the surface of a coin, along with a good portion of the coin's
value. In all fairness, grading services do make occasional exceptions
regarding the cleaning rule, especially for coins that are so rare that people
are glad to acquire one despite the damaged surface. On coins of the nineteenth
century and earlier (dates in the 1800s and before,) the grading services are
also more lenient about cleaned coins, but generally only if the coin was
cleaned many, many years ago.
3. If I Clean My Coins Which
Are Dirty and Ugly, How Can This Possibly Hurt Them?
Once again, we're
back to our cartwheels, which is our demonstration of the state of preservation
of the surface of the coin. For example, let's take a silver coin
(although nearly all coins can suffer toning, which is technically surface
damage.) Silver coins will tone, or tarnish, as a result of the silver
molecules interacting with elements in the environment. As you will see with a
tarnished silver coin, you have lost your cartwheel effect, and the surface of
the coin itself will have suffered some damage (which is why your cartwheel
effect is gone.) However, despite these changes, the surface of your coin is
usually still intact, which can be easily verified under magnification. The
coin hasn't yet lost much value, because the surface is still intact, the way
it left the mint. In fact, some toning is considered to be very beautiful, and
an enhancement to the value of the coin!
Another
good way to damage
the surface of your coin is to use an abrasive cleaner. These come with names
like Wright's Silver Polish and generally consist of a paste or cream that you
rub into the coin's surface until you have removed all the toning (and flow
lines, cartwheel effect, a great number of molecular layers of the coin's
surface itself, and a good portion of the coin's value to boot.)
But one thing is
nearly certain: if you clean a coin to remove tarnish or toning, you will
damage the surface of the coin. Some methods of cleaning metal use a
"dip" type of cleaning, where you dip the coin in a solution for a
brief time and than wash it off. This method is one of the least damaging,
since it usually just strips a layer or two off the surface of the coin
(including the fragile flow lines which give the cartwheel effect.) Dipping
also leaves the surface dull and ugly.
If you are convinced that the coins are to be cleaned with least disturbance , here is an alternate method, which I have been following. You may notice the condition of the metal spikes due to constant usage .Follow steps 1 to 4
Step
1. Metal Spikes Holder :
You can
get this in Flower Arrangement Outlets. Square shape with 20 x 20 spikes will
be good enough. The width between spikes should be able to accommodate the
thick coins to be cleaned.
Step
2. Organizing coins for cleaning.
Organize the Coins vertically without touching each other and with clear gaps between them. Make sure that all the coins are arranged properly.
Step
3. Retaining Bowl
Place
the metal spike with the coins inside a bowl as shown.
Step
4. Soaking coins:
Pour a diluted hand
washing solution inside the bowl till water level is 2 or 3 millimeters above
the top of the coins. By this method , both sides and the edges of the coins
will be in contact with the solution for the same duration and avoiding differential exposure to the
solution. After 4 to 5 hours , remove the coins slowly. Clean the coins with
fresh water and then wipe off with a lint free soft cloth like “used dhoti”. This method had been followed by me
for the encapsulation of the coins to be detailed in the succeeding write-ups.
Tips: Cleaning demands tons and tons of unadulterated patience.






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